Repairing Cracks of Drywall Yourself at Home
Drywall Damage can range from small cracks to large holes, but most repairs are easy and inexpensive to repair. We have six different ways to repair, depending on the size, type, and location of the damage.
Step 1: Surface Crack Repair
Unlike plaster, plasterboard has a transparent lid of paper rarely cracks or fissures. When a crack appears, it is usually in a seam where two drywall is, and can be easily arranged.
If the crack is in a vertical or horizontal seam, widening the crack carefully the corner of a paint scraper, a knife or chisel to determine if the crack completely through the paper covering the seam ( 2); and if the tape is released from the wall surface. If the tape is intact and well bonded, the crack was likely caused by age composite gypsum drying and shrinkage. Simply fill the crack with a new compound. When the compound is applied, hold the knife at a 70-degree angle and pass through the crack. Make sure the knife is clean by scraping both sides of it on the edge of the pan. Allow the joint compound to dry completely and then lightly sand the area ( 3). Clean dust and paint over it.
Step 2: Crack repair deep
If the crack extends through the seam of the paper web, or if the tape is detached from the wall, use a razor to cut the ribbon about 6 to 12 inches from both ends of the damage (picture 1 and 2). Remove the tape, but be careful not to tear the paper coating drywall. Scrape any compound in bulk and the use of a knife or a drywall saw to extend the crack through the surface of the wall in the wall cavity ( 3). Avoid removing solid compound adheres well beyond the crack itself.
Fill the crack with a new joint compound, and apply a thin layer of compound to the surface of the wall where the old tape has been removed. Although the compound is still wet, placing a fiber ribbon of glass strip on the seam, thereby reducing the gap between the ends of the existing band ( 4). Use a spatula to smooth wrinkles and gentle in bed the tape into the compound.
After the compound is dry, add a second thin layer of compound on the etched area. Cover band and cone or “feather” the edges of the new compound on the surface of the surrounding wall ( 5). composed of drywall should be applied in several thin layers thicker layers because they are too difficult to soften and eventually cause cracks.
When the second coat is completely dry, use sandpaper to smooth out irregularities. Then use a large (8 to 12 inches) compound taping knife attached to completely cover the patch with a third and final layer. Try mixing this layer as perfectly as possible on the surface of the wall. When dry, sand lightly, remove dust and repainting the entire region.
Step 3: Pop nail repair
A common problem drywall, especially in newer homes is “nail pops” or nail heads that move away from wooden poles and protrude through the drywall tape or paint. This is usually caused by evil twisted wood was dry when installed. Although the drywall is rarely in danger of falling off the wall, the bumps are visible and unsightly.
Using a knife to scrap away the drywall until the screw is exposed.
Then there are two ways to solve nail pops: Use a screwdriver or a hammer to drive the nail back into the legs ( 1), then brackets each nail head with very close screw each other plaster (picture 2); or, remove the cloves and place a screw in place, together with a second screw closely to ensure the drywall back onto the stud.
Using drywall screws, be sure to recreational heads slightly, creating a dimple on the surface of the drywall that can be covered with joint compound, but be careful not to puncture the surface of the paper. When several screws are placed in a row, each composite spot-patch and cover with a strip of tape fiberglass as described in the above steps ( 3).
Step 4: Repair Corner Bead
Plaster outer corners are reinforced with metal or plastic edges, called angle. Although this grain is resistant to damage, noise may make the whole gypsum that covers cracking or breaking, and a strong enough shock can dent or bend the cord angle. Usually the damage is limited to a short section can be cut and replaced.
If the damage is limited to the set gypsum, simply remove all loose material and apply another product. It does not take the band on the compound.
If it is dented heel, use a cutting saw cutting metal for cutting across the grain above and below the damaged area ( 1). Then use a knife to cut vertically around the corner bead ( 2). angle is usually fixed with drywall nails, so use a crowbar or claw hammer to remove the clips. Place a band knife or thin plywood behind the tool to avoid further damage to the wall – take care not to raise against the unsupported plasterboard load or tool will drill a hole that require more extensive repair .
Use scissors to cut a metal section of the new corner bead to fit the repair area ( 3). Apply a layer of corner joint compound, secure the cord in place, then apply another coat of joint compound over it. Allow to dry completely and then add another layer of compound or two depending on what ( 4) is required.
Step 5: Repair holes
For holes up to about six inches in diameter, a variety of plaster brewing kits are available. The kits usually have a central panel surrounded by reinforced tape. Just stick the patch on the wall and cover with drywall compound.
You can create your own patch to repair larger holes in drywall. For holes that do not extend posts on each side, you will reinforce the hole. Measure the hole and cut a piece of drywall that is slightly larger than the diameter of the hole. Place the piece of plaster on the damaged area ( 1) and trace around it with a pencil ( 2). Use a plaster or a reciprocating saw to cut the area inside the traced lines ( 3). Cut two 2×4 slightly larger than the hole. Placing 2×4 vertically inside the hole on each side of the hole. (It is necessary to strengthen the horizontal edges of replacing drywall). Fix the 2×4 to the drywall with screws ( 4). Set the new drywall into the hole and secure it with screws 2×4.
Cut the raw edges of plaster around the room. Place tape strips of fiberglass on the repair to enhance it ( 5) area, the extension of the web a few inches beyond the patch. Do not overlap the tape. The band and covers the entire surface with a thin layer of joint compound, and complete the repair as described in the previous steps.
Step 6: Major repairs Section
Drywall damage extending through one or more wall studs require additional reinforcement and repair. Before cutting into the wall, make sure that there is nothing in the way, like electricity or plumbing.
Use an electronic stud finder to mark the studs behind the plates of damaged plaster and use a saw or reciprocating saw to cut drywall plasterboard. Be careful not to cut into or through wooden posts. Remove as much drywall as necessary until it reaches beyond the posts on each side of the damaged area. Discard drywall and remove all nails or screws to exposed drywall.
Install wooden slats with wooden poles on both sides of the opening to support the vertical edges of the new plaster (1). The use of waste wood, such as slats 1×2 for minor repairs; If you replace a large sheet of drywall, reinforce the opening with the construction of wooden 2×3. staples cut a few inches longer than the opening. Place the strips flush with the face of existing poles and install screws or nails. It is necessary to strengthen the horizontal edges of replacing drywall.
The measure, cut and install new drywall to fit the repair area ( 2). Make sure to use drywall which corresponds to the thickness of the original walls. the interiors are typically covered with drywall 1/2 inch thick, but some areas, such as between a house and a garage, require thicker fire resistant gypsum panels. Use drywall screws to fasten the drywall to the studs (photo 3) and for any position between them, as in the new construction. Put tape on the joints and apply joint compound as described in the above steps ( 4).